Pipeline
Pipeline, 2016Pipeline, 2016
In 2016, I was on the North Shore of Oʻahu. An early-season swell was building in the ocean, and I quickly realized I was well past my limit. The joy I initially felt being in the water turned into fear. I carefully navigated my way back to the beach between sets of massive walls of water. Grateful to be back on solid ground, I stopped and asked a surf photographer, “What is the name of that wave?” He pointed at the next set detonating on the reef and said, “That’s Pipeline.” I had been surfing the most famous wave in the world—and didn’t even know it. I sat on the beach, hypnotized by the ocean folding over the reef. It was like seeing my first unicorn—my brain was melting.
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